cross-posted from: https://lemmy.zip/post/1339055
Archived version: https://archive.ph/lxnhz
Archived version: https://web.archive.org/web/20230811194132/https://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-66471990
This longer article has the footage and more in-depth explanations.
Basically they had to choose between carrying on with their world record breaking climb, or calling their attempt off to focus on saving a life.
They chose to carry on, assuming (wrongly, as it turns out) that someone else would come and save him.
Their world record was a success.
I am tired of Sherpas being treated as disposable by people who prioritise prestige or money spent, over human life.
If that were one of them’s father or brother lying there, they would have made a different choice.
This is the best summary I could come up with:
A well-known Norwegian mountaineer has denied accusations that her team climbed over an injured guide during a bid to break a world record.
Speaking to the BBC’s The World Tonight programme, Ms Harila said members of her team tried to help Mr Hassan but it was “not possible” to get him back down the narrow route, which was crowded with other climbers.
Ms Harila suggested there were questions to answer for the company that employed Mr Hassan - who was part of a “fixing” team sent ahead of the climbing group to secure ropes - because he appeared not to have an oxygen supply or suitable cold weather clothing.
Ms Harila said she did not see exactly what took place, but the next thing she knew, Mr Hassan “was hanging upside down” on a rope between two ice anchors, with his harness "all the way down around his knees.
Her team tried for an hour-and-a-half to fasten a rope to the guide and give him oxygen and hot water, she recounted, until “an avalanche went off around the corner”.
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Of what she says is true, it sounds like they really did do what they could for the man.
But someone fucked up of he didn’t have proper equipment, and it was her expedition, so If any of their partner organisations were this careless, she should name and shame. Stuff like this should not be ignored.