I liked your take. I enjoyed the setting and writing very much so I was willing to put up with fine but bland gameplay.

Maybe I have a different revision than you. Both of my Tac AA and Rider RX have probably 150-250ms of lag after clicking the switch to when the light actually emits light.

The dual fuel and 14500 size is what got me to buy this. I don’t really like the input lag on the switch which is unusual for a “tactical” light but it’s a great size and shape for EDC, albeit the clip ramp could have been made smoother. Altogether this is a great light to carry if you need to be able to source batteries “in the field” as AAs are so commonplace.

Layoffs are unpopular so companies are tightening the belt by making the working conditions less hospitable.

Return to office is designed to have employees leave willingly so they can reduce headcount without making employees feel unsafe about budget cuts.

What they don’t seem to care is top performers are the ones most able to move to another job with better working conditions.

With a trim at the bottom by letting go of low performers and encouraging top performers to leave they are just trending toward mediocrity.

Hank is a real gem. I am amazed at his customer service and willingness to take custom orders.

That deeper textured reflector is really nice. Clean beam and smooth transition but plenty of throw. If you don’t mind the narrower field of view, it’s quite a versatile beam for near and far.

I just put one together like yours but with 519a and the new buck driver!

Nice setup. I’ve always felt the S6 was classy and criminally underrated. I didn’t even know the 18350 Ti tubes dropped!

Agreed on the switch being a little hard to press compared to most. I think the upside is that reverse clickies for whatever reason tend to be far more durable/reliable over time especially at high amperage, so I can’t complain too much about it. Plus of all the lights I own I’d trust that the Hoku Clicky will never turn on accidentally in my pocket.

I forgot to mention: I have mine set up for 4 steady modes starting with moonlight plus disco modes. (ML - 2% - 25% - 100% - Strobe - Beacon | No Memory)

Full UI guide here, under rev.1 http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=19

On the M150, it’s possible to desolder the RPP. Can you do that on the H150 as well?

I sure hope they don’t discontinue the SP36 BLF. Even though there are lots of more exciting lights now (cough M44 cough) there’s really nothing that can come close in value for the money.

Agreed. I really like the UI on the H17Fx, but I prefer a simpler mode progression UI on the reverse clickies. The 8A should give a nice punch to some shorty triples I built for use around the house while having plenty of runtime on the lower side.

Kinda wish he had a 1 or 2A buck driver too. Not every light needs to empty an 18350 in 20 minutes.

Personally I’m really happy that the buck driver’s inductor is short enough that it fits in the smaller S6+/S8+ engines. I need to pick up a few of the 8A ones to revamp some triples I have…

Having a few LEPs now I can say that the smaller ones are my favorite and the most useful because the beam isn’t as coherent resulting in a larger, more usable hotspot. The Lumintop Thor 1 and 2 are really great pocket cannons and sold at a pretty fair price especially if you can snag a deal coupon. The bigger ones like the Weltool W4 are not as useful because the beam is too tight!

That said, the FW2 that @dartanjinn@lemm.ee recommended looks like a great option and its larger brother, the Mateminco FW3 with its dual flood/LEP beams is very handy and the beam is still not too tight because the LEP optic itself is fairly small.

Barrel, Sinner, Okluma, McGizmo, Reaver, Torchlab

Jesse who makes the Citadel in his one man CNC shop makes them on the lathe first and then screws them as tightly as they fit together and then does the long cuts on the assembled body. When you screw it tightly it will always align perfectly.

http://www.reaverarms.com

I’m still disappointed Hank decided to checkerboard the LED channels instead of making separate frosted/clear channels possible.