Impressive!

Wow so shiny. Is that a 3D printed spacer? Did you put it in front of the glass lens?

Yes and no. While you can use the aux in all the strobes with the latest firmware, there are still only 2 brightness levels (a hardware limitation), and not all of them work like you would expect.

At the moment:

• You cannot ramp up and down, there is only a high mode
• Candl mode and biker strobe are just constantly on in high mode and the brightness cannot be changed
• Party strobe (low mode) and tactical strobe (high mode) work
• Lightning mode partially works (alternates between off and high mode at random intervals)

Yes I have installed the new multi-channel branch on all my TS10s. I suppose if you want to use the aux as a channel then you could prefer it to be brighter.

For myself, my aux leds are in high mode when in standby, and go to low mode when auto-lockout kicks in.

I use two pairs of vice grip pliers, one on the head and one on the bezel, with some leather to protect the finish. Heating the bezel up by dipping it in some freshly boiled water should make it easier.

Using this method I have removed many bezels (TS10/SP10 Pro/FW1A Pro) uneventfully. Removing the tail is another story though, because the leather just keeps slipping on the smooth parts of the tube/tail.

Thank you. I hope so too, and high CRI!

I just saw this posted over at BLF (credits go to koef3 and Simon from Convoy).

The tint of that sample is at or above BBL. Fingers crossed for some rosy ones when they are actually released. Though I would not use an apheric lens to make a square beam out of one. And the reflector options for 5050 LEDS in the FW1A mean that it won’t be as throwy as a CULPM1 in a smooth reflector.

I love them, but with the availability of the T1616 adapter, I feel like I need to push them all to the limit and have 3 colours for each light, even if the colours are the same lol.

Here is a video of it in action. And another.

Yea I don’t own one yet, but it should be around 5.6mm to 5.7mm.

I can try making a version with the LEDs closer to the 3535 cutout

That would be great if you could, thanks.

I am looking into sourcing some of these RGB leds to try, and discovered that there is an even smaller model available.

B36S3RGB is 0.69 x 0.69mm. These are the ones you are using.

While

B36L3RGB is 0.65 x 0.65mm. Have you thought about using these?

I have not studied the datasheets in detail but from a quick glance, apart from the size, they seem to be identical otherwise.

Awesome! Do you think if I can fit these RGB leds under an original FW1A reflector with the smaller opening (not the crappy FW1A Pro reflector)? If I can eventually find one that is.

I think it is a good choice, even if you just use the crappy reflector from the FW1A Pro. I played around with that reflector very briefly and just raising that reflector a little bit will tighten up the beam from the Yinding.

I just need to have aux though, so I won’t be using a reflector.

I haven’t seen one of those, does it look like the original FET+7+1 driver otherwise, do you have a photo you can show us?

When I ordered my FW1A Pros, I asked the guy on the aliexpress store to show me a picture of the driver before I placed the order, in case they are still shipping FET+1 drivers.

Thanks man! When this mod is complete, the light will have your T1616 adapter inside of it.

From reading the Yinding thread over at BLF, there seems to be quite a large variation in tint measurements, both positive and negative duv. Someone measured a duv of -0.0067, so I guess I won the tint lottery.

@TacGriz I saw that you were looking for a throwy TIR for your FW1A, how about an aspheric lens? My mod is in progress but I think it looks quite promising. From preliminary testing, the beam is nice and round with the round-die emitter. But the emitter is magnified so clearly such that the uneveness in the phosphor can be seen on a white wall. Though it won’t be seen when used as a thrower in real life.